Cutthroat Couloir on McGinnis Peak

March 2002 with Jeff Benowitz

East Face from Peak 9400

The East Face of McGinnis from Peak 9400. The Cutthroat Couloir is the obvious ice line which hits the Northeast Ridge. Photo by Seth Adams (April 2004).

Approaching the climb

Approaching via the heavily crevassed glacier. Photo by Jed Brown.

From the bottom of the route

Looking up the route. The two cruxes are clearly visible. The upper portion of the route is excellent granite. The baby angles were excellent. Photo by Jed Brown.


The second crux of the route featured overhanging bulges of slush. Photo by Jeff Benowitz.

After the crux

After the crux, there was some easy slush climbing before we could get protected from the scary rockfall. Photo by Jeff Benowitz.


This corner offered excellent gear and protection from rockfall. Photo by Jeff Benowitz.


We hid under a granite overhang until the sun left the face. Photo by Jeff Benowitz.

Simulclimbing ice

The upper portion of the couloir offered simulclimbing good 55 to 65 degree water ice. Photo by Jed Brown.


We snow caved when we hit the ridge and continued up the ridge in the morning. This gendarme forms the crux of the Northeast Ridge. Photo by Jed Brown.

Descent 1

Downclimbing the ridge below the snow cave. Photo by Jeff Benowitz.

Descent 2

This section of the ridge offered rotten, sun-baked snow climbing with no protection. Photo by Jed Brown.

Contact: Jed Brown jed AT 59A2 DOT org

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