South Buttress of Nenana Mountain

July 2004 with Kevin Wright

Photos copyright 2004 Kevin Wright.


We chose to approach along the Nenana River from the Denali Highway.


The canoe saved us a miserable 10 km of hiking through a marsh.


After some wet brushy hiking due to us being on the wrong side of the river, the hiking became excellent, but the pitons seemed out of place here.

Camp established

This flat rock was highly appreciated.


The South Buttress route is near the left skyline and the cragging we did is down and to the right of the smooth, overhanging, orange wall at center.

The South Buttress

Approaching the climb

Walking up the glacier to the South Buttress (on left skyline) at dawn.

Pitch 2

Following the second pitch, a stellar 5.8 hand crack.

Pitch 4

Pitch 4.

Ridge Blocks

Running pitch 8 through mostly fourth class.

South Buttress

A straight-on view of the route. (Hi-Res: 2600x3896)



Deciding that I will want a rope for this. The dihedral started as a finger crack and ended as an offwidth. Excellent 5.10 pitch.


More 5.10 (thin) handcrack on good rock.

Contact: Jed Brown jed AT 59A2 DOT org

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