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Gillam Glacier Part 1

May 2005 with Jeff Benowitz and Seth Adams

Photos copyright 2005 Jed Brown unless otherwise noted.

We flew to the Gillam Glacier with Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi. Jeff broke his leg in October 2003 and after three surgeries, still can barely walk.

Balchen

When we arrived, the range was incredibly dry. That would soon change as it snowed almost every day including our summit day. Our route followed the right skyline.

North Ridge and Geist

Geist from the Gillam

We viewed the W Ridge of Geist (left skyline) as an objective to get on when the weather was marginal. (c) Jeff Benowitz 2005

Seth on Geist

Seth Adams waiting for the weather to come in on the W Ridge of Geist.

One legged downclimbing

The one legged man downclimbs too.

Hiking to N Ridge Col

Hiking toward the N Ridge Col on Balchen. (c) Jeff Benowitz 2005

Climbing to Col

Seth starting up to the N Ridge Col. (c) Jeff Benowitz 2005

Seth

Seth nearing the N Ridge Col. Look!!! It's snowing!

Jeff

Well, I guess we'll get cold if we just sit here.

Below the bergschrund.

Below the bergschrund after descending. (c) Jeff Benowitz 2005

On glacier

Seth and Jeff with the N Ridge Col approach route above. What we could see of the N Ridge indicated that it would have sustained climbing and be impractical to follow one-legged or by jugging.

Balchen and Hayes

We went back to hiking on the W Ridge of Geist. Balchen with Hayes poking up above the N Ridge Col. (c) Jeff Benowitz 2005

N Ridge of Balchen

The North Ridge of Balchen.

W Ridge of Geist

I like this handhold. (c) Jeff Benowitz 2005

W Ridge of Geist

More hiking on the W Ridge of Geist. (c) Jeff Benowitz 2005

Seth on Geist

Seth near our high point on the W Ridge of Geist.

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Contact: Jed Brown jed AT 59A2 DOT org

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