June 2003 with Jeff Benowitz and Eddie Phay
Photos by Jed Brown.
The East Face. The gully accesses the North Ridge.
Kichatna Spire from near camp on the Shadows Glacier. The East Face is visible and the South Ridge starts on the left skyline.
Gurney Peak from the Shadows Glacier.
The East Face of the Citadel from the Shadows Glacier. The Embick route follows the steep, golden rock to the right of the huge couloir. Some Brits climbed the right fork of the couloir (a steep ice line) in the spring of 2003 using fixed ropes. Some Poles put up an aid line called ``Last Cry of the Butterfly,'' (also in Spring 2003) a few meters to the left of Embick's route.
Vertex (left) and Archdeacon Peaks from the Shadows Glacier. There looks to be good climbing on Vertex. The steep yellow wall on Archdeacon has been climbed.
We blew our only good weather day after the climb by going to this spire down the glacier. The prow to the left of this photo looked like excellent rock, so we hiked down and did some approach pitches. Unfortunately, it was very steep with no cracks and this section (to the right of the feature that wasn't there) quickly started to look like a slow, difficult aid climb. We went down after Eddie lead this pitch.
Contact: Jed Brown jed AT 59A2 DOT org
